New York Time Review: Xarello Takes Inspiration From a Michelin Favorite

Home/Uncategorized/New York Time Review: Xarello Takes Inspiration From a Michelin Favorite

New York Time Review: Xarello Takes Inspiration From a Michelin Favorite

Look close enough at Xarello, a Mediterranean restaurant that opened late last year in Williston Park, and you will see a place where nearly every detail is perfect. The dining room is sleek and romantic, with radiant cherry-red banquettes that hark back to the Russian Tea Room. Glasses, tableware and cutlery are all four-star quality. And the service, which embraces a more formal style, is outstanding. Water glasses barely reach the halfway mark before they are refilled, and plates of food land unfailingly in front of the person who ordered them. You will not find much better service this side of the Lincoln Tunnel.


Xarello also has two handy and personable owners in John Alexopoulos and Claudio José Peralta. Both men are veterans of Manhattan’s Picholine, a Michelin-starred restaurant that closed in 2015, and the experience is evident in Xarello’s polished service. Like all caring owners, neither is above stepping in to clear a plate or refill a water glass.

Lagging slightly behind this gleaming facade is the food. While it is almost always good, it never quite reaches the level of panache found in other aspects of the restaurant. Chef Katia Ramirez worked at Picholine with Mr. Alexopoulos and Mr. Peralta, and it is easy to understand the potential they saw in her. Her cooking is nothing if not bold. But what is both encouraging and frustrating about Xarello is how much of the food is one mislaid component away from being excellent.


We liked the flavors in the braised rabbit risotto appetizer, for example, which also included mushrooms and roasted broccoli. But the sauce was thinner and less creamy than it should have been, and as we made our way to the end of the dish, some of the stock used to flavor the sauce lay in a shallow pool at the bottom of the bowl. This is especially curious as Ms. Ramirez favors vialone nano rice — a highly absorbent grain capable of taking on twice its weight in liquid — instead of arborio for her risottos.

A heavy touch was also found in two pasta dishes. The house-made butternut squash agnolotti (similar to ravioli) was tender and flavorful but sat in an abundant pool of sage brown butter sauce. If a chef goes to the trouble to make by hand, he or she wants to make sure it is the star of the dish, but our version had too much butter. It didn’t completely vanquish the pasta, but it gave the dish an oily, fatty quality that was cloying.

Similarly, a house-made tagliatelle with mussels was weighed down by an extravagant amount of parsley picada sauce. The sauce and mussels were excellent, though the tagliatelle was cowed by the picada, so much so that the pasta could only provide backup texture for the dish.

An appetizer of cod cakes was very good, especially the cilantro and harissa aioli, the spices just subtle enough to help the cod without overpowering it. And the salmon blinis appetizer was outstanding, the smoked fish shaped into flower buds, then filled with crème fraîche and topped with osetra caviar. It was also highway robbery at $15.


As for the entrees, a Cornish hen under brick was tasty, the bird served super tender and evenly cooked on a bed of cannellini beans. And the salmon with couscous and lobster sauce was perfectly prepared, seared crispy on the outside and medium-rare in the center.

Less inspiring was the smoked pork chop, which came with a nice savory bread pudding but a too-thin cranberry sauce. The filet of sole looked gorgeous, the strips of fish layered in a T-shape above a bed of chickpeas and studded with flaming-red piquillo peppers. But as we dug in, we realized that in order for fish to hold firm enough to be stacked, it also had to be considerably overcooked, as was ours.

Desserts are exceptional, especially the very creamy eggnog panna cotta, and the brilliant Greek cheesecake with rosemary caramel sauce studded with pomegranate seeds.

Make no mistake, there is not a single dish on Ms. Ramirez’s menu that is uninteresting or lacking in flavor. Instead, the devil is in the details, usually having do to with an imprudent handling of sauces. To use a baseball metaphor, Ms. Ramirez is like a young pitcher with an overpowering fastball who needs to mix in the changeup. When she does, Xarello — which already has everything else in place — will be a restaurant to be reckoned with.

By |2020-04-24T07:18:19+00:00May 11th, 2016|Uncategorized|17 Comments

About the Author:


  1. I am truly thankful to the owner of this web site who has shared this fantastic piece of writing at at this place.

  2. Extended Opportunity February 11, 2024 at 3:30 pm

    Hey Guys,

    Warning: From February 2024, all existing email autoresponders will become obsolete!

    In fact, if you want to send marketing emails, promotional emails, or any other sort of emails starting in February 2024, you’ll need to comply with Gmail’s and Yahoo’s draconic new directives.

    They require regular marketers like you and I to setup complex code on sending domains… and existing autoresponders like Aweber and GetResponse are not helping: they’re requesting you do all the work, and their training is filled with complex instructions and flowcharts…

    How would you like to send unlimited emails at the push of a button all with done-for-you DMARC, DKIM, SPF, custom IPs and dedicated SMTP sending servers?

    What I mean by all of that tech talk above, is that with ProfitMarc, we give you pre-set, pre-configured, DONE-FOR-YOU email sending addresses you can just load up and mail straight away.

    We don’t even have any “setup tutorials” like other autoresponders either, because guess what: we already did all the setup for you!

    All of our built-in sending addresses and servers are already pre-warmed with Gmail and Yahoo and they’re loving us: 99% inbox rate is the average!

    ⇒ Grab your copy here! ⇒

  3. You’re so awesome! I don’t believe I have read a single thing like that before. So great to find someone with some original thoughts on this topic. Really.. thank you for starting this up. This website is something that is needed on the internet, someone with a little originality!

  4. 10รับ100 wallet ล่าสุด February 14, 2024 at 8:10 am

    I am truly thankful to the owner of this web site who has shared this fantastic piece of writing at at this place.

  5. ทางเข้าUFABET February 16, 2024 at 9:39 am

    หากคุณเป็นคนหนึ่งที่ชื่นชอบเกมพนันออนไลน์และกำลังมองหาแพลตฟอร์มที่ให้บริการเสถียรและมีความสนุกสนาน แน่นอนว่าคุณเคยได้ยินเกี่ยวกับ UFABET แล้วใช่ไหม? ศัตรูพร้อมที่จะรื้อคืนความสุขและเพลิดเพลินกับความสนุกอันไม่มีที่สิ้นสุด ที่รองรับการเล่นเกมที่หลากหลายและมีความคลาดเคลื่อนในทุกๆ การจับสลาก!

  6. Extended Opportunity February 26, 2024 at 4:12 pm


    The moment we’ve all been waiting for is finally here – GoBuildr is now LIVE! 🎉

    🌐 Create ultra-lightning-fast websites, sales funnels, eCommerce stores, and more in less than 60 seconds, with just a keyword!

    🚀 Say goodbye to the limitations of traditional page builders. GoBuildr combines the functionality of 16 different tools into one powerful app, supercharged with AI-assisted technology.

    ⇒ Click Here To Checkout Demo

  7. Extended Opportunity February 29, 2024 at 4:49 am

    He Got 256,354 Free Views With AI…

    Can you believe it?

    People spend thousands of dollars to get that kind of result…

    My friend Kundan just did it for free…

    He only used his new app… AI ScreenSnap…

    It’s the world’s first AI app that can generate videos with the power of Video-Exclusive AI Engine…

    That can edit, record, and generate videos with just a few clicks… with zero experience…

    Click here now and watch AI ScreenSnap in action

  8. Extended Opportunity March 14, 2024 at 4:32 am

    A.I Create & Sell Unlimited Audiobooks to 2.3 Million Users –

  9. Extended Opportunity March 17, 2024 at 6:51 pm

    A.I Create & Sell Unlimited Audiobooks to 2.3 Million Users –

  10. March 19, 2024 at 11:29 pm

    Excellent write-up

  11. Extended Opportunity March 21, 2024 at 11:48 am

    Create Stunning Ebooks In 60 Seconds –

  12. Extended Opportunity March 21, 2024 at 11:48 am

    Create Stunning Ebooks In 60 Seconds –

  13. Extended Opportunity March 26, 2024 at 6:08 am

    Elevate Learning Adventures with The Story Shack!

    A library of 200+ high-quality books tailored to the school curriculum.
    StoryShack’s Build a Book bundle features word searches, quizzes, creative coloring pages, high-quality images, and top SEO keywords.
    StoryShack’s StoryCraft Pro bundle includes the “Melody Minds Library” with 350+ music tracks and “AnimateMasters Pro,” offering 30+ categories of animations.
    And as if that’s not enough, here are the MEGA BONUSES:

    ✔ 100+ Mega Mazes Pack
    ✔ 100+ Sudoku Elements Pack
    ✔ 100+ Comic Book Template Pack
    ✔ 100+ Handwriting Practice Template Pack
    ✔ 100+ Kids Story Book Templates
    ✔ Canva Book Templates
    ✔ Additional beautiful content like journal prompts
    ✔ INCLUDED: The Ultimate Workbook

    Click to explore The Story Shack e-Learning Collection and seize the opportunity for multiplied income!

  14. Extended Opportunity April 2, 2024 at 5:57 am

    Millions of Free Traffic with AI Tools –

  15. Więcej szczegółów April 8, 2024 at 11:03 am

    Outstanding feature

  16. Extended Opportunity April 10, 2024 at 1:14 pm

    After Generating Millions Online, I’ve Created A Foolproof Money Making System, & For a Limited Time You Get It For FREE…

Leave A Comment